Tuning Tips: Shock

Upon receiving your shock after service, it should be ready to bolt onto your bike. If we have revalved your shock the rebound and compression settings should be close to correct for you. If we have performed routine maintenance the settings will be returned to the same as when the shock was brought in. Your sag should be checked after installing the shock on the bike. Note: For shocks with a remote reservoir, do not attempt to loosen the hose to reposition it.

Setting the Sag

Step 1
Put your bike on a stand so that the rear wheel is off of the ground and measure the distance from the center of the rear axle to a solid point above. Usually a seat bolt or the rear fender works well. After taking this measurement write it down.
Step 2
Now you are ready to measure your race sag. Race sag is the amount the shock settles under the weight of the bike and rider. You will need someone to help you read the tape measure. Remove your bike from the stand and place it on level ground. Now while you are seated on the bike, bounce lightly a couple of times and assume your normal riding position. Remain in your normal riding position while balancing yourself by the wall or having someone hold the bike for your. (Make sure all your weight is on the bike) Now have your assistant take a measurement from the same spot as the original measurement was taken. Subtract this measurement from your original measurement to find your race sag. This calculation should yield about 95mm. If you find that your calculation is less than this loosen the tension on your spring by backing off the spring adjuster. If your calculation is greater than this tighten the tension on your spring by tightening your spring adjuster.
Step 3
Now you are ready to check your static sag. This is the amount the shock settles under the weight of the bike alone. With the rider off the bike, bounce the bike lightly a couple of times. Measure once again from the same point as the previous two times. Once again subtract this value from your original value to yield your static sag.
Note: With your race sag set at 95mm your static sag should be between 15mm and 25mm. If your static sag is less than 15mm you need a stiffer spring, if it is more than 25mm you need a lighter spring.

Setting the Compression

With the sag properly set find a portion of the track or trail with braking and acceleration bumps. This is a section to test the low speed compression. The shock should absorb the small bumps plushly. If the rear wheel seems to lose traction or bounce over the tops of the bumps, loosen your compression adjustment. Your want your rear wheel to follow the ground.

Now find a portion of the track or trail with a large jump or G-out. This is where we will focus more on the high speed dampening of the shock. Your mainly looking for a harsh bottoming of the shock keeping in mind that you should use all your travel on the largest obstacle on the track or trail. If you are lucky enough to own a late model motorcycle with high speed compression dampening you can use it to adjust the rate at which your shock absorbs impacts of this nature.

Setting the Rebound

With the sag properly set find a section with small braking and acceleration bumps. The idea is to keep your rear wheel on the ground without causing a springy sensation. One theory is to back off the compression adjustment until it feels springy then tighten the adjustment until this springy sensation goes away.

Now find a jump that puts you up in the air a bit. When you land you want the bike to absorb the impact allowing you to power away if the rebound is too fast your bike will bounce back up once you land and cause the rear wheel to break free of traction. If your rebound is too slow your bike will return to ride height to slowly and your could experience packing.

Packing is when your suspension hasn't returned to ride height by the time you hit the next obstacle. If this occurs you should loosen your rebound adjustment.

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